Category Archives: Warhammer Fantasy

Announcing Schedule Changes

Hello there folks.  School is starting back up and things are busily buzzing around the shop.  We have some changes coming up this fall, but I wanted to focus on our gaming schedule today.  We have moved Yu-Gi-Oh! to Tuesday nights to allow for more time and space for D&D Encounters on Wednesdays.

Also, starting in September we are holding x2 SCG Game Night in the shop.  Magic League and Magic Modern format will both be part of this program, so you don’t have to choose between a format you like and the cool swag you need.  Additionally, September marks the kick-off point for our latest Games Workshop Escalation League.  This time around, Fantasy!

Without further ado, here is our schedule:

Kaijudo has rotating formats that follow this sequence (Thursday/Saturday):
1st Standard / Open
2nd Standard / Draft
3rd Open / Standard
4th Draft / Standard
5th Standard / Standard

A Call to Arms WHFB

Calling all heroes and heroines!  Our next Escalation League is about to kick off, and this time around we are playing Warhammer Fantasy Battles (WHFB).

Have you ever wanted to command a troop of High Elves?  Or perhaps lead an army of the undead?  Would your mighty ogre’s make the ground tremble?  Now is your chance.

The league will have 4 increments/levels and run September to January.  December and January will be treated as a “bridge month” so as to work around all the holiday and student schedules.

Cost to join the league is $10.  Entries will be used to provide a closing pizza party as well as prizes for top league players, as well as a sportsmanship award and a painting award.

August: 250 points
Get your feet wet and try out some armies.  No dedicated list is needed and you can switch factions as much as you want.  This month will be unscored, so new players please try things out and experienced players may want to give something different a shot.

September: 500 points
Faction must be chosen prior to being paired.  Core units (min 2) and a single character of no more than 100 points is allowed.  For undead armies, it is presumed your focus of Necromatic power is off field.

October: 1000 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 100 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition rules:
Max: 25% Heroes/Lords/Characters
Max: 40% Specials
No Rares

November: 1500 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 200 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition per standard rules

December/January: 2000 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 200 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition per standard rules

 

Don't mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

Don’t mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

<caveat>
I am not a “good” painter, I’ve been in the hobby for less than a year.  I’ve painted just a handful of kits, so “newb” is a fairly accurate descriptor.  These are my first bases.
</caveat>

Ever feel like you are in some bizarro alt universe?  Daily?  You should probably see a doctor about that.

I’ve been playing with the new Agrellan Earth technical paint from GW for the last few days (owning a shop has some cool perks) and wanted to share a few things.

 

Three thickness levels applied.

Three thickness levels applied.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Thickness matters, sort of.  I tried reproducing what I saw in the latest White Dwarf magazine in terms of thickness.  I couldn’t get it quite that smooth while being thick.  Maybe they have magic hands (they are in the White Dwarf after all) or perhaps they used a medium to smooth the paint out a little.  Each of these bases has 1 – 2 layers of Rhinox (straight from pot) with a splashing of Mephiston on top.

The closest had what I felt to be really heavy, the cracking strips are also showing my stroke direction.  The surface also looks a lot like the surface of the raw base too.  This got me thinking.  I took a break for the night, and in the morning I called GW to talk over some ideas and spoke with another model enthusiast at Alliance Distribution.  Armed with some new ideas, I tried again.

You need to gloop it on!

You need to gloop it on!

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

I started over with two 25mm bases, perhaps size matters?  (It was one theory)
One I started the gloopification* process directly on (testing the smoothness theory), and the other I applied many layers of Rhinox to smooth out.  It takes roughly four layers to start removing the texture of paint.  Be mindful to rotate the base 90 degrees so you don’t get stroke channels forming.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

It takes over an hour to dry, which is contrary to the WD article.  Again, I could be applying too much.  The idea though with a thick coat is that you will get large plate-like cracking… perfect for your scorched earth combat!

This glooped base is almost dry.

This glooped base is almost dry.

At an hour I can see I wont get those plates, the crackling is great though, a lot better than last attempts.  The texture of the base seems to have an impact on the result from this.

 

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down.  Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down. Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

So this guy needed to be gloopified, and that meant a lot of time to find out what will happen.  I thought of those cav bases that I wasn’t overly pleased with.  The undercoating display was nice, but I didn’t care for the earth part.  So I opted to play a bit…

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I'd wash them to see what would happen.

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I’d wash them to see what would happen.

That was interesting, and thought it could be more though.

Double dipping is ok.

Double dipping is ok.

You can see the differences between one layer and two.  The original layer is the shorter, so I just started over again around 1/3 of the base.  The raw 25mm base is there to compare with.  I think I like the Seraphim Sepia over the Agrax.

Now what happened to that final base?  I did it thick, but not quite gloopified… maybe a little.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base.  A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base. A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

 

That’s what I’ve got.  I’ll continue to play some, next batch of bases are going to have a layer of green stuff on them.  That should be a lot faster way to get a smooth surface to paint on.

I don’t think you need a “lot” on a smooth surface, given the cracking on the sides of the bases.  A few got really nice webbing going on, particularly at a corner.  I think sharp corners act as a focal point, but left to own devices the paint will pull away from its’ center.

~Nat

*Gloopification – Take a basecoat brush and load it up with the AE.  Now “firmly” dab(?) it.  Don’t stroke.  Move quick, the paint gets heavy on the brush and your aren’t really unloading what is in the bristles.