Category Archives: Games Workshop

40K Escalation

imperial bird

2015 Magelings Warhammer 40K Escalation League

The purpose of an Escalation League is for players to compete in a number of battles using the basic Warhammer 40,000 rules set along with certain limitations during a month’s worth of gaming.

This is an open league to promote growth within the local community regardless of prior experience.  Veteran players are encouraged to be informative and helpful with less experience players; and the “Win At All Cost” attitude should be discouraged.

All players are encouraged to “try something new” whether this be your first time with 40K or for an experienced player maybe consider a new army, or an old army you haven’t played with in some time and might need to have the dust knocked-off.

 

As a community fair play, promoting the hobby, and spirit of the game is always a goal.

 

Entry Fee: $20

League play will be different this year; all players will have an opportunity to play both league paired games and new challenge matches.  Both paired play and challenge matches will be calculated into league standings, the more you play the better you are likely to stand.

Paired Play: Four random pairings per month.  Opponents will be expected to make private arrangements to play.  In store play is encouraged but not required.

Challenge Matches: Specific challenge days will be designated for in store play only.  Challengers may come to the store and challenge any other player regardless of pairings.  Whether this is just a “first come” challenge or someone you haven’t been able to previously play the choice is yours (and theirs).  There is no league penalty for turning down a challenge but remember each challenge game provides the same number of points as paired play so the more you play the greater your chance of a higher rank.

Reward:  The top players at the end of the league, determined as a proportion of total players, will win store credit based on their overall score.  There will be a “Hobbyist” prize for the most complete army, as determined by Magelings staff.  Additionally there will be raffled prizes distributed to other players in the league that did not win in the previous categories.

League Schedule: The league will be over 4 months, shorter than previous years.

Feb-May

Challenge Matches: Alternating Sundays beginning Week 2 of league

Month 1:  750 pts, 1(only) HQ and 2+ Troops mandatory; max 0-1 Elite or 0-1 Heavy or 0-1 Fast.  No LoW, No Data Slates/Formations, No Allies, No Fortifications.  Eternal War Missions Only.

Month 2:  1250 pts: Using detachment organization charts from “Warhammer 40,000: The Rules,” maximum 1 Combined Arms Detachment from “Warhammer 40,000: The Rules” only.  No Allies, Data Slates, Formations, Lords of War, Fortifications.  Eternal War Missions Only.

Month 3:  1850 pts: Using detachment organization charts from “Warhammer 40,000: The Rules,” Maximum 1 Combined Arms Detachment (w/Fortifications) and 1 Allied Detachment (may represent a different army) or 1 Data Slate/Formation.  No LoW. Maelstrom of War Missions permitted but not required.

Month 4:  2250 pts:  Using detachment organization charts from “Warhammer 40,000: The Rules,” Maximum 1 Combined Arms Detachment (w/Fortifications) and 1 Allied Detachment (may represent a different army) or 1 Data Slate/Formation, Lords of War are allowed.  Maelstrom of War Missions permitted but not required.

Scoring*:

No-Show: 0
Loss: 3 points
Tie: 5 points
Win: 7 Points

Crushing Victory: 10 Points- Scored only if you triple your opponents victory points or remove every model from the table (example final score: 8-4 Win, 9-3 Crushing Victory).

If an arranged match is a “no-show” and the match cannot be rescheduled within the same month the player who made the appearance will receive a Tie score.

*Remember, Challenge Matches score the same as paired play.

 

FAQ:

Is there a restriction on vehicle Armor values?

No, players should account for the need to deal with heavy armor beginning the first month.

Are named characters allowed?

Yes, however, some named characters are now classified as Lords of War and would be subject to any restrictions on these entries.

Can I use Forge World?

Yes, but only for specific units.  Complete army lists derived from Forge World materials are not allowed.  This would include army lists from any of the Imperial Armour or Horus Heresy books.  Printed copies of unit rules are encouraged.  Also you may not use those rules which are marked “experimental.”

Do Armies need to be WYSIWYG?

Players are encouraged to formulate their army lists in such a way that they are appropriately modeled.  Some exceptions can be made but a clear and concerted effort must be made to describe the differences.  

May I change Armies during the league?

Army selection can only be altered between the first and second months of gaming and only a one-time change is allowed.  

Furthermore players must build upon their pre-existing list; however, players may alter 1 unit entry, this is to account for a unit not performing as anticipated.  This is to be done between months of play and not within a given month.  

If my Army receives a new codex which must I use?

If a codex was released prior to the start of a given month of gaming you must use the most current codex, it will be players discretion on whether they use old or new during the same month it is released.  (example: A codex updates in week 2 of the first month, the player must begin the second month of gaming with the new codex but may retain the older codex for the remainder of the first month if they want.)

Can I use Codex supplements?

Yes, supplements to existing codices are considered valid.  Printed versions of supplements are encouraged.

Helpful Hints:

1.       A single die should be considered as “cocked” if another die cannot be placed upon the surface of die in question and not slide in any manner.

2.       When expected to roll multiple dice to determine the results of an action players should roll the maximum needed for an effective result each time.

  • Example: In WH40K you have 7 wounds on a unit of 8 models without a character model, all 7 results should be rolled at once.  If a character model is included the maximum dice can be reduced to the number of models preceding the character and rolled until further actions are needed (“look-out Sir!”).  Continue on once dice been expended.

3.      Disputes should try to be resolved between opponents in a calm manner prior to engaging with a Staff member;  if parties cannot agree to a solution, it is advisable to “roll for it” by assigning either a higher/lower value to each players interpretation and rolling a single die (or both players rolling a die, the higher being the one selected) for a random ruling.

4.       Terrain: Players are welcome to agree amongst themselves as to the appropriate placement of terrain.  All terrain should be placed prior to selection of deployment area and done is such a way to minimize any advantage.

  • It is recommended to randomize placement of terrain by using dice for placement.  This can be accomplished by using two dice, a scatter die and a single D6.  Players alternate placing all terrain.  After the last piece is placed the terrain is scattered using this method.
  • Roll the dice for each piece.  If an Arrow is rolled move the terrain the number of inches shown on the D6 in the direction indicated.  If a “hit” is rolled on the scatter die then the distance shown is halved (rounding down) on the D6, thus a roll of 1 keeps the piece in place; use the small arrow for direction.  If scatter would place terrain less than 6 inches from another piece of terrain or any table edge then the distance scattered should be reduced the minimum distance necessary to be at least 6 inches from other terrain or board edge.

A Call to Arms WHFB

Calling all heroes and heroines!  Our next Escalation League is about to kick off, and this time around we are playing Warhammer Fantasy Battles (WHFB).

Have you ever wanted to command a troop of High Elves?  Or perhaps lead an army of the undead?  Would your mighty ogre’s make the ground tremble?  Now is your chance.

The league will have 4 increments/levels and run September to January.  December and January will be treated as a “bridge month” so as to work around all the holiday and student schedules.

Cost to join the league is $10.  Entries will be used to provide a closing pizza party as well as prizes for top league players, as well as a sportsmanship award and a painting award.

August: 250 points
Get your feet wet and try out some armies.  No dedicated list is needed and you can switch factions as much as you want.  This month will be unscored, so new players please try things out and experienced players may want to give something different a shot.

September: 500 points
Faction must be chosen prior to being paired.  Core units (min 2) and a single character of no more than 100 points is allowed.  For undead armies, it is presumed your focus of Necromatic power is off field.

October: 1000 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 100 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition rules:
Max: 25% Heroes/Lords/Characters
Max: 40% Specials
No Rares

November: 1500 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 200 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition per standard rules

December/January: 2000 points
You may drop 1 unit
You may adjust an existing unit, with no more than a 200 point difference from it’s former incarnation.
List composition per standard rules

 

Vitae VII

Registration: $15 per player; Players are encouraged to pre-register at Magelings or online.

This is a 7th Edition event.  Game mechanics, Special Rules and FAQ’s from the most recent release are live.  Each player must bring a 1500 point Battle-Forged army.  Armies must have 1 primary detachment; an optional maximum of 1 allied detachment using 7 edition ally matrix is permitted.

Print version of codices are preferred for ease of rules review.

Details:

  • Registration and set up will begin at 10:00 am when store opens.

  • Three, 2 hour rounds, with random pairings (no repeats if possible); with a 15 minute break between rounds.

  • First round begins at 11:00 am.

  • Lunch Break: one hour and 15 minutes (includes 15 minute round break) between first and second round.  If you complete your first round game early you may depart for lunch after your scores have been submitted.

  • Each round will be assigned a round score based on game results, all round scores will be tabulated in order to determine winner for event.  Round scoring will not be used to determine pairing for next round. Round scoring: Major Victory/Tabling= 7pts, Victory= 5pts; Draw= 2pts, Loss= 0 (major victory is considered when a player scores double +1 victory point more than opponent).

  • See “Tournament and House Rules” for more details regarding time limits and tournament scoring.

  • Players are encouraged to bring a tray or display board to easily carry their armies from table to table.

Restrictions:

  • All tables will be pre-set with terrain prior to event.  No deliberate alteration of table is permitted (see restrictions regarding fortifications).

  • No Forgeworld rules (models may be a proxy for standard codex entries)

  • Ally rules apply (Battle Brothers, Allies of Convenience, Desperate Allies, Come the Apocalypse)

  • No Lords of War

  • No data slates

  • Fortifications: only Aegis Defense Line allowed (race specific proxies allowed but follow same rules as Aegis).  Players bringing a fortification are permitted to move 1 terrain piece a minimum distance in order to place the fortification under supervision of T.O. and opponent; it is the players responsibility to replace the terrain piece at the end of the game so that is back in the approximate location.
Don't mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

Don’t mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

<caveat>
I am not a “good” painter, I’ve been in the hobby for less than a year.  I’ve painted just a handful of kits, so “newb” is a fairly accurate descriptor.  These are my first bases.
</caveat>

Ever feel like you are in some bizarro alt universe?  Daily?  You should probably see a doctor about that.

I’ve been playing with the new Agrellan Earth technical paint from GW for the last few days (owning a shop has some cool perks) and wanted to share a few things.

 

Three thickness levels applied.

Three thickness levels applied.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Thickness matters, sort of.  I tried reproducing what I saw in the latest White Dwarf magazine in terms of thickness.  I couldn’t get it quite that smooth while being thick.  Maybe they have magic hands (they are in the White Dwarf after all) or perhaps they used a medium to smooth the paint out a little.  Each of these bases has 1 – 2 layers of Rhinox (straight from pot) with a splashing of Mephiston on top.

The closest had what I felt to be really heavy, the cracking strips are also showing my stroke direction.  The surface also looks a lot like the surface of the raw base too.  This got me thinking.  I took a break for the night, and in the morning I called GW to talk over some ideas and spoke with another model enthusiast at Alliance Distribution.  Armed with some new ideas, I tried again.

You need to gloop it on!

You need to gloop it on!

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

I started over with two 25mm bases, perhaps size matters?  (It was one theory)
One I started the gloopification* process directly on (testing the smoothness theory), and the other I applied many layers of Rhinox to smooth out.  It takes roughly four layers to start removing the texture of paint.  Be mindful to rotate the base 90 degrees so you don’t get stroke channels forming.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

It takes over an hour to dry, which is contrary to the WD article.  Again, I could be applying too much.  The idea though with a thick coat is that you will get large plate-like cracking… perfect for your scorched earth combat!

This glooped base is almost dry.

This glooped base is almost dry.

At an hour I can see I wont get those plates, the crackling is great though, a lot better than last attempts.  The texture of the base seems to have an impact on the result from this.

 

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down.  Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down. Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

So this guy needed to be gloopified, and that meant a lot of time to find out what will happen.  I thought of those cav bases that I wasn’t overly pleased with.  The undercoating display was nice, but I didn’t care for the earth part.  So I opted to play a bit…

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I'd wash them to see what would happen.

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I’d wash them to see what would happen.

That was interesting, and thought it could be more though.

Double dipping is ok.

Double dipping is ok.

You can see the differences between one layer and two.  The original layer is the shorter, so I just started over again around 1/3 of the base.  The raw 25mm base is there to compare with.  I think I like the Seraphim Sepia over the Agrax.

Now what happened to that final base?  I did it thick, but not quite gloopified… maybe a little.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base.  A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base. A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

 

That’s what I’ve got.  I’ll continue to play some, next batch of bases are going to have a layer of green stuff on them.  That should be a lot faster way to get a smooth surface to paint on.

I don’t think you need a “lot” on a smooth surface, given the cracking on the sides of the bases.  A few got really nice webbing going on, particularly at a corner.  I think sharp corners act as a focal point, but left to own devices the paint will pull away from its’ center.

~Nat

*Gloopification – Take a basecoat brush and load it up with the AE.  Now “firmly” dab(?) it.  Don’t stroke.  Move quick, the paint gets heavy on the brush and your aren’t really unloading what is in the bristles.