Monthly Archives: November 2013

Don't mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

Don’t mind the knights, they were a handy distraction while working on the bases.

<caveat>
I am not a “good” painter, I’ve been in the hobby for less than a year.  I’ve painted just a handful of kits, so “newb” is a fairly accurate descriptor.  These are my first bases.
</caveat>

Ever feel like you are in some bizarro alt universe?  Daily?  You should probably see a doctor about that.

I’ve been playing with the new Agrellan Earth technical paint from GW for the last few days (owning a shop has some cool perks) and wanted to share a few things.

 

Three thickness levels applied.

Three thickness levels applied.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

The result after an hour or so of drying.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Let it dry some more, minor increase in cracks.

Thickness matters, sort of.  I tried reproducing what I saw in the latest White Dwarf magazine in terms of thickness.  I couldn’t get it quite that smooth while being thick.  Maybe they have magic hands (they are in the White Dwarf after all) or perhaps they used a medium to smooth the paint out a little.  Each of these bases has 1 – 2 layers of Rhinox (straight from pot) with a splashing of Mephiston on top.

The closest had what I felt to be really heavy, the cracking strips are also showing my stroke direction.  The surface also looks a lot like the surface of the raw base too.  This got me thinking.  I took a break for the night, and in the morning I called GW to talk over some ideas and spoke with another model enthusiast at Alliance Distribution.  Armed with some new ideas, I tried again.

You need to gloop it on!

You need to gloop it on!

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

Using Rhinox Hide to smooth down a base.

I started over with two 25mm bases, perhaps size matters?  (It was one theory)
One I started the gloopification* process directly on (testing the smoothness theory), and the other I applied many layers of Rhinox to smooth out.  It takes roughly four layers to start removing the texture of paint.  Be mindful to rotate the base 90 degrees so you don’t get stroke channels forming.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

Thick is thick, so it needs to sit for a while.

It takes over an hour to dry, which is contrary to the WD article.  Again, I could be applying too much.  The idea though with a thick coat is that you will get large plate-like cracking… perfect for your scorched earth combat!

This glooped base is almost dry.

This glooped base is almost dry.

At an hour I can see I wont get those plates, the crackling is great though, a lot better than last attempts.  The texture of the base seems to have an impact on the result from this.

 

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down.  Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

Over four layers of base paint to smooth it down. Attempt to get a red clay at the end.

So this guy needed to be gloopified, and that meant a lot of time to find out what will happen.  I thought of those cav bases that I wasn’t overly pleased with.  The undercoating display was nice, but I didn’t care for the earth part.  So I opted to play a bit…

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I'd wash them to see what would happen.

Unhappy with the previous cav bases, I thought I’d wash them to see what would happen.

That was interesting, and thought it could be more though.

Double dipping is ok.

Double dipping is ok.

You can see the differences between one layer and two.  The original layer is the shorter, so I just started over again around 1/3 of the base.  The raw 25mm base is there to compare with.  I think I like the Seraphim Sepia over the Agrax.

Now what happened to that final base?  I did it thick, but not quite gloopified… maybe a little.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base.  A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

The gloopification process begun anew on a smooth base. A bit thinner than last time, in between the thickest cav base and the last 25mm.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

It came out fairly nice, no big plates.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

The mephiston on rhinox really shows off the cracking.

 

That’s what I’ve got.  I’ll continue to play some, next batch of bases are going to have a layer of green stuff on them.  That should be a lot faster way to get a smooth surface to paint on.

I don’t think you need a “lot” on a smooth surface, given the cracking on the sides of the bases.  A few got really nice webbing going on, particularly at a corner.  I think sharp corners act as a focal point, but left to own devices the paint will pull away from its’ center.

~Nat

*Gloopification – Take a basecoat brush and load it up with the AE.  Now “firmly” dab(?) it.  Don’t stroke.  Move quick, the paint gets heavy on the brush and your aren’t really unloading what is in the bristles.

Black (Market) Friday

Make a deal!

It’s our first (annual) Black Friday event, and in true form we want you involved!

We will open at 11am on Black Friday and invite CoMo and all to come in and see YOUR wares! We want the shop to be a community market.

You know it, your wife/girlfriend/roommates knows it. Now if they will say something though is different. You’ve got too much stuff (Tracy calls mine crap!). Stuff you don’t play with anymore. Wouldn’t you like to see it in a good home being enjoyed? Or perhaps you love the haggle but short of holding a garage sale you don’t really get to practice being an aspiring entrepreneur. Well here is your chance.

What can you sell? Board games, crafts, cards (yes, even Magic singles), collectibles, mini’s,… whatever. (Please nothing big like washing machines though, it would be a pain to get in and out of the shop)
What will we sell? We will have a Woot-Off style day of specials all the way to midnight.

Attendance is free and open to all (of course!) and tables will require a $5 donation. We will collect the proceeds and give to the Central Missouri Humane Society. You are welcome to charge whatever you feel is appropriate for your stuff and you keep all the cash! No tithing or any of that! If you need a credit card transaction we will provide that at a small fee to cover our end. If you want a table, please drop Nat an e-mail: nat@magelingsgames.com.

The market will wind down late afternoon so that we can prep for our Friday night games. While the market is going on, we encourage you to demo what you have… show off that awesome game. We will also be running various game demos too.

Support a great cause, your fellow community members and get some holiday shopping in cheap!

Nat

Will you fight, or will you fall?

Warhammer-Games-Workshop-900x1600
War wages, the threat of Tyranids looms closer, and the Tau cannot ensure stability in the Outter ‘Verse. So suit up and grab a bolter, this ride is going to get rocky!

Join us for our second Warhammer 40K escalation league! This league looks to highlight aspects of the game while easing new players into the game. The schedule has been designed to fit into busy lives as well as budgeted ones. At the end of league you will have gotten a complete army together and have had opportunity to test and tune it.

The deets:
Entry fee: $10
Length: 6 months, each comprising of 4 games
Benefits: One time 15% discount for league players for growing their army. 100% prize payout at the end of league. Rewards to best tactical players as well as the most artistic (on new builds).

Timeline
January – 500 pts
Musts: A minimum of 2 troops
Optional: HQ, Dedicated Transport (AV 12 or less)
Banned: Flyers, Allies, Fast/Elite/Heavy choices, fortifications
You may change your list at any point

February – 750 pts
Musts: A minimum of 2 troops, HQ
Optional: Dedicated Transport (AV 12 or less), 0-1 Fast/Elite/Heavy choice
Banned: Flyers, Allies, fortifications
You may change your list at any point, but by the end of the month you are then locked in on your starting list.

March – 1000 pts
Musts: Same core list as February but may change 1 unit, follow full force organization chart.
Optional: Dedicated Transport (AV 12 or less), fortifications
Banned: Flyers, Allies

April – 1250 pts
Same core list as March but may change 1 unit.
Flyers are now allowed

May – 1500 pts
Same core list as April but may change 1 unit.
Allies are now allowed. Once declared, that is your ally for remainder of league.

June – 1850 pts
Same core list as May but may change 1 unit.
You now have a tournament sized army and have tested it out.
Awards ceremony at end of month.